Thursday, April 27, 2006

Blue donkeys- Abolish!

Now, although I don't know a single Ethiopia who refers to the minibus-taxis as "blue donkeys" I'll stick with it as it ties in nicely with the title of the last post.

Thing is, they are parctical only in the hours between 9:30am and 4pm. They'll even fight over you- uhuh! Being vied for by taxi conductors is only a wet dream for communters though- peel out of bed at 6am to make it to the taxi rank before 7am so that you have at least a 1 in 4 chance of getting a taxi to your first destination at a reasonable price (150% price increase).
Today I scrapped with a conductor who tried to rip me off- he got one in the face, I almost one on my mouth... I've had enough- I know this beats London's underground system anyday, but at least there it's a faceless "system" that dips you in shit and cocks up your day for the pleasure of paying £7. Here it's some smeggy, chat-addicted sneering yob trying to get the better of you. Yes, yes, they're making a living and could just be professional full-time gangsters, but give us all a break- the commuters are trying to get to work as well, without ending up abused, ripped off, manhandled and bruised.

Al Amoudi might be a cynical, unscrupelous gangster in an Armani- but I can't wait for him to start up his taxi service.

Wednesday, April 26, 2006

Intercontinental Donkeys

Yesterday I visited a friend who was due to leave for the US after a prolonged stay in Addis- I found her close to hysterics.
Once a whole load of relatives, friends, friends of friends and other random people had heard about her Ethiopian Airlines luggage limit they had piled on the charme and came grovelling with requests: "And tiniTiye festal bicha- Adja le setwa lidge, MTS, SIGHHHH, aras ecko nat..." [Que frantic batting of teary eyelashes and dabbing with frayed bits of soft]. This tiny coy bit of Adja in a little "ye 10 santim festal" turned out to be a little bit more: 2kg of Adja, 1kg of Berbere, 0.5kg of whole MiTmiTa kariya, 2kg of Qibe and some DirQosh thrown in to make a complete meal in case the plane got delayed by 1 week somewhere...
Multiply this with the other solicitors for free food transfer and my friend had about one small travelling bag left for her own stuff- she also has a sister who's in childbed.
I was there long enough to see the packing and re-packing of various items. Wow, the glory of junk!
There was the usual assortment of food ingredients (fresh and dried) and snacks, coffee, the ubiquitous shemma scarf and even a coupla big gabis, then came the earthenware coffeepots and (this is where it gets dabgerous) one of these pots with a cavity for hot charcoal underneath for some real tasty shiro, dried bits of plants for inhalation against Mich and Gunfan, a Weyra log the size of my arm, 1/2 a Difo Dabo, hair products from Indonesia and Brazil, candles, YeKoba Qitel, and- then I stopped looking to turn and see my friend close to biting off her mother's head. Now we know that in Ethiopia, displays of emotion, especially anger, especially against your elders, is something that does not take place in a room full of said relatives and friends. So I can assume that my friend was just a bit upset. The senders sat there chatting away happily, obliviously nibbling at some Qolo from a burst bag that will sadly never see the other side.
I started to wonder about our famed capacity for Yilunta which in theory should have stopped the tiny bag from growing to a 5kg+ monstrosity when I spotted something gleaming away under a pile of goods- the bag that contained my mother's twice removed cousin's shiro and berbere for her kids in Minnesota. Can we ever stop?

Tuesday, April 18, 2006

Oh Chicken!

Just a shorty as this is some frantic week from hell spiced with a nasty cold. Anyway, so in the run up to the good-humoured (...) butchering of sheep, chicken, goat and cattle one of the most pressing issue here in Ethiopia is: To eat or not to eat chicken? News on State Media is that so long as you cook all poultry products thoroughly you should not fear Avian Flu, however, not many have the economic power to spend another 40ETB on fuelwood to fizz up in our thin air. People are concerned about the contamination from the blood and other fluids to open cuts obtained during butchering. Plus of course there is the Ethiopian belief about the vapours and nasty smells that arise from the environment, including dead chicken, that could give you the flu.
Meanwhile the price of sheep has gone up to 500 to 800ETB, Cattle have gone up to 3000 to 4200ETB.
Some are saying that they'll make themselves a nice, tasty shiro that has been blubbering away for at least 20 minutes with some pure, spiced kibe added. That's what my bet is on. What are the online Ethio-shops saying?

Anyhow, happy preparations to Fasika!

Thursday, April 13, 2006

Historic poverty

Global Call to Action against Poverty (G-CAP) has announced that it will resume its activities in Ethiopia after holding a “series of high-level meetings” with the PM, other government officials and member of Civil Society Organisations.

Two points stand out here, number one being that Daniel Bakele and Netsanet Dimissie, the Ethiopian co-ordinators are in prison. This is what the Press Release had to say:

“The delegation met with the G-CAP detainees Daniel Bekele Mulugeta and Netsanet Demisse Belay. Raising their case with senior Government officials, the delegation was assured that they would be accorded a swift hearing in the coming weeks and months and that the trial will be conducted in a completely open and transparent manner.” (All emphases mine)

Something tells me that “the coming weeks and months” actually translated from usual Ethiopian vagueness about time and distance could mean anything from 1 week to 168 months (eg Mengistu's case 12 months times 14 years). My bet is on the larger number of months...

Second point:

"Given both Ethiopia’s historical importance on the world development stage and the international profile of the Prime Minister, we were reassured to hear from the Prime Minister, that recognising the value of this campaign, he welcomed the resumption of the campaign in Ethiopia in 2006" (Dr. Kumi Naidoo, a member of the GCAP delegation.) (Italicisation mine)

Ok, so Ethiopia is famous for being uh- poor and starving- so we have a "historical importance". What does that mean- is it because despite billions of Dollars and many years of "development assistance" Ethiopia is still dirt poor? That is a historical feat for sure. Guess bad publicity is better than no publicity...

Now, the juicy bit: "The international profile of the Prime Minister"- which international profile do they mean?

Take a pick:
1. One of the "new breed of African leaders"
2. The Yarra Award winner for (reducing) hunger and food scarcity in Ethiopia
3. The Africa Commision member/ Tony's buddy
4. The steely father of revolutionary democ(k)racy
5. The forger of the new Ethiopian Ethnic identities- Divide and Rule
6. The tyrant who cannot take no for an answer
7. A stately statesman/ He of the mislaid millions
8. Unleasher of state terror

So much arse-kissing before the whole thing has been relaunched- how well does that bode for the arguments and lobbying clout of G-CAP?

However, there was one sane and sober statement to give hope that some organisations out there have some backbone:

Catholic Archbishop of Addis Ababa [...] said: “Our presence here is to offer solidarity and support as Ethiopians collectively search for solutions to urgently re-open political and civic space and re-establish trust and dialogue.”

We can build on this statement and remind the G-CAP of what it stands for and how tough the fight against poverty, corruption, bad governance and oppression will be.

Tuesday, April 11, 2006

Very wrong

Glad to say that I was wrong with my prognosis...
The only things that went bump in the night were huge timber logs being unloaded at the local building site at 9pm, sounding like gunfire. Then there were the canon blasts at Jan Meda to mark a peaceful day.

Friday, April 07, 2006

Hype (?)

There's been so much talk of various bombs going off all over the place- apparently there was one outside our office the other day- haha... I walked past it thinking someone had lost their gift or something: a parcel in white cardboard (like perfume bottle packaging) measuring about 8cm x 15cm x 3cm lying on a piece of white wrapping paper with some thread sticking out of it...

On the other hand there have been so many more armed feds around- walking about in groups of 4 to 6, at least two of them armed with "big guns" so maybe there have been some real explosions somewhere.
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Update

Let me play Cassandra for bit:

If I remember correctly the last time we had some serious unrest was in November, around a muslim holiday. It was a convenient, easily escalated day for the regime as it could then blame Neftegna Christian CUD Voters for inciting violence as a mark for their contempt towards any other religion and ethnic group (Leba enat lijuan tetereteralech...). The muslims are quite easily provoced and riled when it comes to the increasingly hostile treatment and ridicule that their faith is facing all over the world- the last week saw a series of demonstrations in Awassa and Addis because some idiot had desecrated the Quoran by wiping his behind on it... We can count on some more demonstrations on monday then, and my bet is that it will be conveniently fuelled by TPLF/ EPRDF to escalate into more unrest and deaths in the streets...

I hope I'm wrong

Wednesday, April 05, 2006

Think like a top-class athlete

For a while now people concerned about the fate of Ethiopia have been analysing, protesting, prophesising and ranting about the terrors of this regime and what needs to be done too get rid of Meles and Co. The more I read accounts of human rights abuses such as the powerful statement by Obang O. Metho to the House Subcommittee on Africa, Global Human Rights and International Operations, the more I am convinced that this government has no good intentions towards Ethiopia at all. It is a deep, somewhat awkward treasure trove for them to get fat on. The awkwardness of Ethiopia lies with the 77 million that farm the fertile soil, exploit the gold resources in an unregulated manner and are sitting on oil and gas reserves.

However, let us think beyond the current struggle for a minute to find ways of avoiding the fate of the Oromos and other tribes under Haile Selasse, Tigrayans under the Derg, the Amharas, Guraghes and most other tribes under the current government. How can we, as citizens of Ethiopia, make sure that we drive the next government to work for us, using the riches of this country for the greater good of all in a manner that doesn’t denude the country and degrade the resources for generations to come?
You can argue that it is human nature to look for one’s own advantage and prosperity with utter disregard for the long-term consequences to others and oneself. However human beings and societies can evolve far enough to admit the evil that is lurking within all of us and have found ways of staving it off and muting it. We do not need to ram machetes into each others’ faces, or rape 6 year old girls in order to live a good, peaceful life enjoying our rewards. Governments such as the Scandinavian ones may have some flaws but they seem to be the most equitable, fair and democratic way of ruling with the people while looking after the natural resources and also granting some perks for the rulers (and that from Vikings...).

The way the TPLF took over 14 years ago was all too easy, all that the citizens of Ethiopia could see was that their feared and loathed Mengistu was out of the country. There were attempts to include as many stakeholders as possible in the formation of a new state and government, the US brokered treaties forming a brittle base. However, the TPLF had it mapped out right from the start, taking over power under the guise of a multi-ethnic, multi-party , inclusive and participatory modes of government. They were given carte-balnche because at least they weren't "bloody commies". A false hope for greater ethnic and personal freedom was fostered by the misleading notion of regional states based on the ethnicity of people. This wasn’t seen by many as a “divide and rule” tactic, many genuinely believed that their ethnic identity was respected and valued. However a tyrant of the Ethiopian variety is not just a Chiraq who sheds blood and instils overt terror of the Nazi variety- he also knows how to give the impression of granting some liberties based on apparently civil negotiations and generous statesmanship.

It is a bit like a manipulative, passive-aggressive husband- if he marries a woman used to being battered daily by her father she will not mind the “lighter”, subliminal physical and psychological terror he lets loose on her occasionally. He can behave like a complete brat and do outrageous, disrespectful things like shag his secretary once so that she ends up not minding the affair he has with her sister… It’s always the lesser of two evils she has to contend with. And so the Ethiopian people are just looking forward to a better time than the present: The escape from Mengistu was enough for most, will the mere escape from Meles be as good? Will the people both in Ethiopia and in the Diaspora lean back now that the EPRDF is gone only to witness the next round of abuse, exploitation and state terror?

What makes the current situation different is that the Ethiopian people are much more politically savvy than they were 32 and 14 years ago, they have been had twice- the first time it was a bewildering, bloody ride and the second time was a steady progression towards oppression and violence masked by talk about democracy- and that talk was the little window for the spirit to realise what the people really want for themselves. The increasingly widening disparity between the talk on state-owned media and during woreda "limat zemecha" speeches and the daily lives of the people spawned questions and realisations. The opportunity to actually cast a vote against the much feared and awed authority of the state was enough as a catalyst for new thoughts and ideas regarding political and personal freedom and rights. The votes may have been stolen, but the window cannot be slammed shut by any force anymore.

Ethiopians in cities, towns and abroad have even better awareness about democracy and what constitutes a truly democratic state. It is up to us to ensure that people know that democracy and a new freedom don’t mean bloody revenge acts against those of the old regime, that destroying infrastructure put in place by the EPRDF doesn’t hurt Meles in any way, that a relapse into apathy and snide resistance is not conducive to a new beginning.
Ethiopia is increasingly becoming attractive for potential exploitation of natural and human resources while the world is entering a new era of dire resource scarcity; when the middle east dries up the tiniest drop from Ogaden and Gambella will be enough justification for those who have put all their eggs in the petroleum basket to warrant exploitation and abuse of the country and its people. If we do not act consistently and unrelentingly in a united and mutually accomodating manner then the next government could be worse than the present one by not just submitting us to the abuse by our own but to the abuse by greedy, unscrupulous outsiders. The carte blanche for EPRDF/TPLF has been reissued under the theme of Fight against Terror and the thirst for Oil.

That is where the thinking like a top-class athlete comes in: Go beyond envisaging the race and visualise how it will look, sound and feel to come first in the race- the rush of adrenaline and excitement when you realise you have actually left the others in your dust, the adoration form your fans and the acknowedgement from rivals.
Translated into modern Ethiopian politics this means looking beyond the struggle and the vicious despair and hate that are clouding our vision. We have to be able to play make-believe, draw up plans and scenarios of how the next government will function, what our roles, rights and duties will be, how we will interact and -most importantly- how Ethiopia will look after 5-15 years of this kind of government. Daydreaming and envisaging the ideal outcome is a great stress-reliever at the least- and a brilliant plan of action for the best scenario.

Monday, April 03, 2006

Truckers validate economic boom

Ahhh, good old state media:

On Saturday (April 1st...) ETV news featured a report that truck drivers on the Djibouti-Addis route had sound evidence of the economic boom that is occurring in Ethiopia. Their reasoning went something like this:

A. The volume of food aid transported is decreasing
B. The number and quality of “investment goods” (e.g. construction machinery, industrial raw materials) is increasing
C. The increased volume of fertiliser that flowing into the country is a sign that farmers are actively driving the agricultural sector, their thirst for fertiliser having become insatiable

So, let me see… the truckers realised the nature of their loads had changed, applied some basic economic analysis to this (You can graph V of food aid decreasing vs. increase in V of hard ware imports just beautifully!) and voila- there they had it! They were ferrying the prosperity of Ethiopia quite literally on their backs!

Oh ok, lets rejoice then.

The media is just great in its creativity:
US tourists speaking of “reliable peace in Ethiopia”(ENA March 31st)- The bombs are just to alleviate the tedium of so much peace then?

After the November unrest the news showed some guy sitting in front of a computer screen reading e-mail messages from all over Ethiopia: "Ato Ayalew from Amahara Region condemned the anti-peace elements for inciting violence and hatred; he also asserted his support for the government's actions in quelling the unrest and bringing security back to the capital..." Blah... The same message was read out with varying vocabulary and grammar (for the English News), covering Ato Gemechu from Oromia, Ato Araya from Tigray etc- just so you know, all (but not)the ethnic groups stand firmly behind this government. Wow, you have to be impressed- I mean! It's computer literate, internet savvy guys who are stating their support- so even the educated masses are pro-EPRDF, Ato Berhanu Nega et al are just freaks!

Soon the news will feature what kind of car the typical hooligan CUD supporter drives- a beat up old VW, a Lada Niva, a minibus taxi. Oh but look, the EPRDF supporter drives a shiny new Mercedes, a Lamborghini or even a Rolls Royce! That must mean something, just not sure what... Who'll be impressed by this? Urbanites? Farmers certainly don't give a damn about internet and cars so long as they cannot farm the land the want and require and their cattle dies of pneumonia.

Who next will vouch for the government's claims of economic boom? Some suggestions:
Fernando de la Rúa Bruno (Argentina)
Robert Mugabe
Carter
Hu
Miss Piggy (Investor in high class beauty parlours all over Ethiopia)
The Spirit of Stalin and Revolutionary Democracy


It is pitiable really, this fat cheeked naivitee and lack of cynical questioning of actions- "a little knowledge is dangerous"